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My Garrett GTP30-67 Turbine Engine

I originally wrote this for my other web site www.WeldingFaq.com

This turbine had low hours, but had been in storage and was in very poor cosmetic condition when I got it. The wiring was a 'rats nest' with cut wires everywhere.

After I detailed it, I was pleasantly surprised at how nice it looked. Since this unit weighs 87 lbs, I needed a cart that would allow me to easily roll the unit around. I blocked the turbine in place and fabricated the support structure.

I designed the cart for both running and display purposes. I refurbished a fuel tank from an outboard motor for my fuel supply. Rated at 65 HP these engines are very popular with hobbyists.

The Power Take Off (originally designed for a generator, currently unused) turns at 8000 rpm. Here you can see the individual parts that make up the GTP30-67. Here is one installed in a Suzuki motorcycle. This turbine will run on almost any fuel including; Gasoline, Diesel, Kerosene, JP-8, JP-4, JP-5, JET A, or JET A1.

In this left side view you can see the intake (Arrow 1) and the igniter (Arrow 2). The ignition system is a single Bendix igniter. The radial air intake is between the compressor and the reduction gearbox. A single-entry impeller is mounted back-to-back with the turbine wheel on the main shaft.

This is a one-stage turbine with a one stage centrifugal compressor that has one combustion chamber. It was originally used as an Auxiliary Power Unit (APU) to supply 400 Hz power for aircraft servicing.
The square frame allows me to stack junk on top when not in use and serves as a handgrip for easy moving and loading.

This close-up of the left side shows the Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) sensor (Arrow 3) that sends a signal to the EGT indicator to read about 520F or 290C at 100% RPM (no load).

I researched the component functions and designed my own wiring diagram. I did not have a 24 volt solenoid so I used a 12 volt 'Ford' style starter solenoid for powering the starter. All the wire connections are soldered to ensure reliability.

A Pneumatic Exhaust Temperature Limiter (Arrow 4) sends a feedback signal to the fuel control. The igniter plug (Arrow 5) functions like a spark plug (except it is only used during the start cycle- up to 30% RPM).
This motor has great oil pressure and reads about 44 PSI on the gauge (Arrow 6) when turning at 100% RPM. The Oil Pressure sensor (Arrow 7) shuts off fuel in event of oil pressure loss. Oil Consumption is approximately 0.15 Pints per hour.

The Fuel Nozzle (Arrow 8) sprays fuel into the burner can. The Electric Fuel Pump (Arrow 9) pumps fuel through the Fuel Filter (Arrow 10) to the Fuel Control. Removing power to the Fuel Shutoff Valve (Arrow 11) is the only way to shutdown the turbine.

The Overspeed Sensor (Arrow 12) kills power to the Fuel Shutoff Valve in event of overspeed. The lubrication system provides 32-37 psi from an air cooled tank (built into the gearcase). The gearcase is serviced with Mil-L-23699 oil here (Arrow 13). The Burner Can (Arrow 14) holds a continuous flame while the engine is operating.

A pair of trusty Les Schwab RV batteries (Arrow 15) provide 24 VDC power. Once started, the only power required is to energize the Fuel Shutoff Value into the open position. The EGT and RPM gauges are self powered and do not require 24 VDC.

The Starter (Arrow 16) spins the turbine up to 'lightoff' speed (approximately 30% RPM) and from there it spins right on up to 100%. The integral Fuel Control governor provides automatic starting, acceleration, load and speed control. The power to weight ratio is 0.68 shp/lb.

The Tach Generator (Arrow 17) sends a low voltage signal the the RPM gauge. I grounded the batteries (Arrow 18) on the side of the gearcase. I used an outboard Fuel Disconnect Fitting (Arrow 19) so I could stow the fuel tank in my fuel storage area while not in use. The Fuel Control (Arrow 20) is an electro-pneumatic type that carefully meters the correct amount of fuel to sustain 100% RPM during all load conditions.

Another view of the Fuel Control (Arrow 20). All power is routed through the Master Run Switch (Arrow 21) and the Starter Switch (Arrow 22) provides power to the starter and igniter during the start cycle.

The Exhaust Duct (Arrow 23) puts out high temperature exhaust gasses and the Exhaust Pressure Sensor (Arrow 24) provides a feedback signal the the fuel control.

I use an outboard quick-disconnect fuel fitting (Arrow 26) to plumb the fuel source.

I designed a 'control panel' for the switches and indicators. The RPM Gauge (Arrow 27) reads in percent of rated RPM. The Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) indicator is self contained and requires only a millivolt signal from the EGT sensor. The entire unit is flawless (except for a crack in the EGT glass). The white 'master run' switch was faulty and as been replaced with a 'mil-spec' toggle switch.

Under the heading of "don't try this at home" here's how to modify the governor so you'll have the ability to throttle the RPM between idle and 100%. This is from a GTP 30-57 but is basically the same. Thanks to Jerry Green for contributing this modification.

The governor weights are seen in the upper part. The cap is what requires modification. There is an rpm adjustment screw on the cap. What we are doing is removing the screw adjustment and adding a plunger rod with a packing nut to seal it. Then you have to put a lever on the final changes.

You do have to do some serious measurements. Before making any modifications, you need to run the engine at 100%, then remove the governor cap and measure the location of the cup that presses against the spring. This is the position for 100%.

Then, you have to start the engine and start screwing the adjustment to lower the governor setting down to 50%. Then, remove the cap and measure the position again. This will be your slower (idle) position.

Now all the screw adjuster parts are removed from the cap. A 5/16 fine thread hex head bolt should slip through the cap adjustment. The 5/16 bolt has to be center drilled for a 1/8 rod, and the spring thrust washer silver soldered to the rod. When this bolt is installed in the cap, the rod should be capable of duplicating the same positions that you had with the original measurements.

Then make a lever for it and that should do it. A word of caution (not serious unless for aircraft use) a quick down throttle will shut the fuel off completely and will kill the flame front. The engine will start spraying fuel once the governor catches up, but with no flame front the engine will continue to spool down, fogging a few mosquitoes as it goes.

You can also throttle down, but not governor controlled, two other ways. One, you can release pressure out of the pneumatic line and fool the engine into slowing down to around 65% or, two, you can meter fuel out of the injector fuel line, starving the engine into slowing down. I still like having the governor control.

This turbine has been sold and the new owner plans to install it in a motorcycle. More info to follow.
You may also want to check out my other turbine. It's a General Electric T58 producing over 1,250 HP.





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